Kayak Lake Mead and Black Canyon
Building Your Own Kayak

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Kayak Lake Mead

Building Our Own Kayak Chesapeake Light Craft Pax 20 Kayak Fast  Fitness  Racing

clc pax 20

This was the first kayak we ever built; a special Winter '05/'06 project.

The Chesapeake Light Craft Pax 20 is a fast boat. I will have to get myself "trained up" to the hull speed of this kayak!

She doesn't like to turn in a static position; I edge her steeply and do a sort of forward sweep high brace.

But, while underway she turns nicely with a little edging, as you can see here.

She rolls nice! But, with the very high angle fore deck at the  cockpit; I had to build up the closed cell foam knee brace with a  little ridge prevent the knee from slipping while bracing and hip  flicking.   

Notice the position of the rear hatch cover. I can access the  rear compartment while sitting in the cockpit.

Here she is anchored fore and aft. For anchors I use little net  bags with a rock or two that I find on the beach.  

A lot of sanding is involved in building a kayak! It was fun.

Taking special care that the deck will fit perfectly.

We didn't put in a skeg and we changed the position of the rear  hatch cover. So, we added two more deck beams in the rear  using left over shear clamp material.

Here I am cutting and chiseling a slot for the deck's King Plank  in the rear epoxy pour.

Instead of using the 4" deck plate that was supplied; we used  an 8" plate in our forward bulkhead and designed a handle  using 3/4" PVC. I now have enough storage capacity to go  camping.

I epoxied on VERY STRONG foot pegs. I didn't want any  unsightly bolts protruding through the hull. Shown are the  mounts for the pegs which are 3" x 3" and padded with 3/4"  minicell.

To hold the deck in place while the epoxy set, we decided to  wrap her. We used clothes line at about 2" centers.

And we used standard kayak straps at the hard points of  bulkheads and deck beam. We needed a few clamps in the  cockpit area.

Gluing up the coaming was clamp challenging.

Most of my clamps were an inexpensive type...I'll spend the  money for good clamps the next time!

For all of my screw holes; I took the advice from the CLC boat  builders and "drilled, glued, and re-drilled". So, I drilled 1/4",  then epoxied and sanded and then drilled screw hole into the  epoxy.   

The primer is all done; three nice coats.

Right now the epoxy in the cockpit looks good but, it will need  some good varnish with UV protectors. I used Schooner High  Gloss.

There she is all painted with a very unique color scheme and  waiting to be outfitted with some deck lines, seat, and knee and  thigh braces.

Email us about building a CLC Pax 20


clc pax 20 unique paint job
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